Arts & Leisure – Restaurant Review

Ristorante Matteo
Written by Linda Vadász

Ristorante Matteo, opened three years ago by László Pataki, has had its kitchen transformed under the able leadership of a new partner, chef Péter Buday, whose vision has infused the restaurant with fresh vitality. Matteo is nestled in the lower level of the graceful Bauhaus bus station in Pasaréti tér. A piano player provides background music in the evening and the terrace is open in season. Pataki’s inspiration for the interior, executed by designer Mihály Csikos, is the Bauhaus architecture (see note) found in the area The tapas menu is a great place to start. This can serve as an ample lunch, light dinner or hearty first course. You may choose four of the 12 items for HUF 1,980. Try the creamy goat cheese with chives on a bed of greens, artfully presented with breadstick “chopsticks.” The silken texture of the goose liver tartar is balanced by the crunchiness of minced purple onion and chopped red pepper. Marinated Italian anchovies in herbed olive oil, accompanied by a wedge of lemon and a sprig of fresh dill, is another winner. The sliced smoked goose liver with fruits and pine nuts is also noteworthy. For a main course, the double Hungarian lamb chops marinated with tarragon are cooked to perfection. They are served on a mound of crisp green beans flavored with bits of bacon and sautéed onion. At HUF 4,720 this is an expensive dish, but worth every bite. Chef Buday explained that the chops are aged for several days then marinated, and served at their peak, which accounts for the forktenderness of the meat.

The tenderloin of gray steer served with boletus mushrooms and sautéed vegetables is also an excellent dish. This Hungarian breed of long-horned cattle has been revived as a once-endangered species and produces lean and flavorful beef. The generous portion is enhanced by the boletus, more commonly known as porcini, with its fragrant, woodsy aroma and smooth texture. This is a perfect choice for those on a low carbohydrate diet.

As those of you who know me and those who have read my reviews can attest, I love chocolate, so it is no surprise that I tried one of the chocolate desserts - fondue. Chef Buday makes his own sauce, incorporating bittersweet chocolate, cocoa and cream. Our attentive waiter, Ákos, suggested the addition of a little Cointreau, which was a great touch. There is a selection of fresh fruit and homemade cookies for dipping in the warm fondue. Sinfully good. The wine list contains some of the finest Hungarian vintages as well as a few imports. We tried four different reds with our meal, all sold by the bottle or the glass. Surprisingly, more than half the wines are sold by the glass.

Just to mention two: the Konyári Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 at HUF 530/dl or HUF 3,975/bottle with its rough tannins is still a young wine, and was the least complex for my taste. This is especially apparent when compared to the same vintner’s premier offering, the exquisite Loliense 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is from a single vineyard and aged for 17 months is barrique barrels, followed by maturation in the bottle for six months. Matteo features special wine dinners twice a month. Sign up for their email invitations.

Matteo is a bit tricky to find, since it is around the back, past Café Picard, which is owned, along with its Pest namesake, by Pataki. |But it is well worth the search. When I asked about the name Matteo, Pataki told me that it is in honor of an Italian chef whom he admired for his food and hospitality. Unfortunately Chef Matteo has not lived to see this jewel of a restaurant, but his legacy lives on in this attractive, intimate establishment with first-rate food and service.

INFORMATION
Owner László Pataki
Executive Chef Péter Buday
Budapest, Pasaréti tér
TELEPHONE 392-7531
www.matteo.hu
EMAIL matteo@chello.hu
OPEN daily from 11:30am to 12am
AVERAGE COST/DINNER FOR TWO
12.000 HUF + wine

Bauhaus is a style of architecture originated by Walter Gropius in Germany following WW I. Originally planned to house the working class, it became fashionable among the bourgeoisie. Bauhaus architects rejected ornamentation, such as cornices, pilasters and decorative details in favor of pure form. Roofs are flat, façades are smooth, shapes are simple and colors are neutral, with open floor plans. The most concentrated selection of Bauhaus homes in Budapest can be found near Pasaréti tér on Napraforgó utca. This is one of the surprising survivals of the decades that contribute to Budapest’s style and grace. The elegant curved building that houses Matteo, dates from 1937, and was designed by Gyula Rimanóczy, who was also the architect of the Saint Antal Church across the street. (See Budapest Architectural Guide, 20th Century, 6B Épitész, 1997 for more details)