Arts & Leisure – Restaurant Review

Cyrano

WRITTEN BY Linda Vadász

Many restaurants have come and gone since Cyrano first opened in 1993, but it remains today on the cutting edge of Budapest’s fine dining scene due to owner Zoltán Fehér continually re-inventing it. The menu at Cyrano changes periodically and the decor has undergone five metamorphoses. Like Picasso, it has had its red and blue periods, but the current palette is soft browns and subdued lighting – and more discreet.

The menu is au courant, with influences from Western Europe and Asia, but features a few Hungarian classics like gulyás and goose liver. Chef Gábor Ferencz is intent on updating Hungarian cuisine, particularly in the weekly specials through the use of herbs other than the usual dill and parsley and spices other than paprika and pepper. He believes preparing a lighter cuisine, rather than the traditional heavy use of animal fats.

We opted for international fare. For a starter, try the tuna with a spinach leaf encased in Thai rice paper wrapper (updated from the pappardelle announced on the menu). The casing is quick fried so the fish is still rare and served over a bed of field greens and frisée, dressed in delicate Japanese vinaigrette. A real treat!

The wine list features many Hungarian favorites, as well as some lesser-known vintages, including a few French and Italian selections. With the tuna, we tried the Siklósi Malatinszky Kúria Chardonnay Barrique, which boasts a pale straw color. Its intense bouquet, dominated by strong oak notes, overpowered the delicate taste of the fish.

For an excellent main dish, try the fresh Indian Ocean butterfish. The dense, flaky fish, topped with gingery breadcrumbs, is served on a pool of sweet pesto sauce - an unusual basil-infused hollandaise sweetened with a little honey. It bears little resemblance to classic pesto, with its predominance of garlic and pine nuts. The Arborio rice is flavored with white balsamic vinegar and contains sun-dried tomato and slivers of black spaghetti, along with bits of leek and Parmesan. Good presentation has always been a hallmark of Cyrano, exemplified by the half lemon wrapped in tulle served on an attached plate. If you are after something unique, try this dish.

The fruity and semi-dry Degenfeld Tokaji Muscat Lunel wine was a good complement. If meat is more to your liking, try the rosemary-marinated grilled lamb chop, served on a bed of warm rucola for a starter. It is artfully presented with a daub of mascarpone mousse to spread on rounds of crustless brown bread. With the lamb we opted for Péter Vida’s Szekszárdi Cabernet Franc – Merlot

Barrique. The medium-bodied cuvee with its ruby red color and notes of chocolate and berries is very dry and woodsy with just enough tannin to keep it smooth. It was the perfect accompaniment to the lamb chop, as well as to our main course.

We sampled two desserts. The bittersweet dark chocolate soufflé, with a decadent deliquescent core, is served with a warm sour cherry sauce, along with vanilla ice cream and sliced almonds. Rich and unforgettable! The incongruously named Scent of Venice is a polenta cake served with fresh orange and grapefruit sections and pomegranate seeds swimming in sweet syrup. I thought the citrus would temper the sweetness, which was a bit overpowering for my taste, but for those with a big sweet tooth, this is for you. When I think of the Scent of Venice it is not a pleasant aroma. I would suggest calling it the Scent of Valencia.

Zoltán Fehér’s finger is always on the pulse of the moment, which is why you may often find the cognoscenti seated nearby. Outdoor tables are always booked ahead in season, and on a gray November day the tables were still on the square, with blankets provided for those who find it irresistible to watch the passing street scene on a blustery afternoon.

INFORMATION

Owner Zoltán Fehér
Executive Chef Gábor Ferencz
1052 Budapest, Kristóf tér 7-8.
TELEPHONE 266-3096, 318-4991
FAX 266-6818
E-MAIL cyrano@citynet.hu
OPEN 11:00 – 24:00
AVERAGE COST / DINNER FOR TWO
9,000-12,000 HUF + wine

Note: Cyrano de Bergerac, an actual 17th-century French writer, was immortalized by Edmond Rostand’s play, which recalls the escapades of the romantic big-nosed swordsman and poet who falls in love with the beautiful Roxanne. Gerard Depardieu was nominated for an Academy Award for his performance in the 1990 film version. A chandelier from the film was once a centerpiece of the restaurant.